Correct technique for delicates, wool, silk, cashmere, and lace.
Step-by-step method
1
Check the care label
A care label showing a hand in a tub means hand wash only. A plain tub means machine wash is permitted — hand washing is always a safe alternative. A tub with an X means dry clean only; do not add water at all.
2
Prepare the water
Fill a clean basin or sink with cool to lukewarm water. For most delicates, 30°C is the correct temperature. Wool and cashmere are best washed in cold water — they felt in warm water. Silk tolerates lukewarm (30°C) but not warm or hot.
3
Add a small amount of delicate detergent
Use a detergent formulated for delicates or wool — these have a neutral pH and no enzymes. Enzyme detergents (most standard detergents) break down protein fibres, which is damaging to wool, silk, and cashmere. A few drops per basin is enough.
4
Submerge and gently agitate
Place the garment in the water and gently squeeze the soapy water through the fabric. Do not scrub, wring, or rub — this stretches delicate fibres and causes felting in wool. Focus on collar and underarm areas where body oils accumulate.
5
Soak for 10–15 minutes
For lightly soiled items, 10 minutes is sufficient. For items with visible marks or odour, 15–20 minutes allows the detergent more contact time without stressing the fabric.
6
Rinse thoroughly
Drain the soapy water and refill with clean cool water. Gently squeeze water through the fabric. Repeat until no suds remain — detergent residue in delicate fabric makes it stiff and can cause skin irritation. Do not rinse under running tap water; the pressure can stretch delicate fibres.
7
Remove excess water carefully
Never wring or twist delicate fabrics. Instead, gently press the garment against the side of the basin to push out water, then lay it flat on a clean dry towel and roll the towel to absorb moisture without distorting the garment shape.
8
Dry correctly for the fabric
See drying guidance below. The drying method matters as much as the wash method for maintaining the shape and size of delicate items.
Technique: Submerge and squeeze gently. Do not agitate, stretch, or rub. Wool fibres have microscopic scales that lock together under heat, friction, and agitation — causing irreversible felting and shrinkage.
Drying: Lay flat on a dry towel away from heat. Reshape while damp. Never hang — wool stretches under its own wet weight.
⚠ One hot wash or one round of wringing can permanently shrink a wool garment by 30%.
Detergent: pH-neutral delicate detergent — no enzymes, no bleach
Technique: Gently swish in soapy water. Avoid rubbing the fabric against itself. Silk is strong when dry but fragile when wet — rough handling can cause permanent white watermarks.
Drying: Roll in a clean towel to absorb moisture. Hang to air dry away from direct sunlight (UV fades silk). Iron while slightly damp on a silk or low heat setting, inside out.
⚠ Hot water permanently dulls and damages silk protein structure.
Detergent: Very gentle delicate detergent, minimal quantity
Technique: Support the entire garment while submerged — never pick up lace by one corner when wet. The threads are delicate and can distort permanently. For antique lace, consider placing it in a mesh bag for support.
Drying: Lay flat on a clean towel and pin to shape if needed. Air dry away from direct sunlight.
⚠ Machine washing, even on delicate cycle, can break lace threads and pull embroidery.
Technique: Viscose is extremely fragile when wet — it can lose its shape permanently if handled roughly or hung before dry. Lay flat at every stage. Do not soak for more than 10 minutes.
Drying: Lay flat. Never hang rayon when wet — it stretches irreversibly. Keep away from direct heat.
⚠ Rayon and viscose are among the most fragile fabrics when wet. Over-handling in water permanently deforms the weave.
Detergent: Wool wash — avoid standard enzyme detergents
Technique: Many merino wool garments are machine washable on a wool cycle. For hand washing, use the same gentle squeeze technique as wool. Merino is slightly more durable than standard wool but still vulnerable to heat and agitation.
Drying: Lay flat to dry. Merino tends to hold its shape well if handled gently.
⚠ Check the care label — many merino garments specify machine wash on wool cycle, which is actually safer than an incorrectly performed hand wash.
Drying after hand washing
Lay flat
For: Wool, cashmere, knitwear, viscose, heavy embroidery
Place the garment on a clean dry towel or a mesh drying rack. Reshape to original dimensions while damp. Allow to air dry away from direct heat and sunlight.
Roll in a towel
For: All delicates — removes excess moisture without hanging
Lay the garment flat on a clean dry towel. Roll the towel from one end, gently pressing to absorb water. Unroll, reshape, and then use the appropriate final drying method.
Hang on a padded hanger
For: Silk blouses, dresses, lightweight cotton
Use a padded hanger to avoid hanger marks at the shoulders. Hang in a well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Do not hang wool or knitwear — these stretch under their own wet weight.
Hang by the waistband
For: Delicate skirts and trousers
Peg or clip to a hanger at the waistband, not the hem. The weight distributes more evenly and the garment dries without distorting the shape.
What not to hand wash
✗Tailored suits, structured blazers — the interlining can warp when wet
✗Beaded or heavily embellished garments — beads can crack, tarnish, or fall off
✗Vintage or antique fabrics — moisture can cause permanent damage to fragile threads
✗Pleated items with permanent pleats — water removes the pleating set
✗Garments labelled dry clean only — the label is there for a reason