How to Wash Cashmere
Never use biological (enzyme) detergent. Protease enzymes digest cashmere fibre. Use a dedicated cashmere wash, wool detergent, or baby shampoo. Cold water, lay flat to dry.
Why Cashmere Needs Special Care
Cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of Cashmere goats. The fibres are extremely fine — 14–19 microns in diameter, compared to 20–30 microns for most wool. This fineness gives cashmere its extraordinary softness, but also makes it more fragile than regular wool. Cashmere is a protein fibre (keratin). This has two critical laundry implications: heat causes the protein scales to interlock permanently (felting and shrinkage), and enzyme detergent — which works by using protease enzymes to break down protein — actively digests cashmere fibres. Using a biological detergent on cashmere causes irreversible fibre damage.
How to Hand Wash Cashmere
- 1
Fill a basin with cool water — no warmer than 30°C
Lukewarm at most. Cold is safer. Use the coldest water that still feels comfortable to your hands. Cashmere begins to felt at temperatures above 30°C when combined with agitation.
- 2
Add a small amount of pH-neutral, enzyme-free detergent
Use a dedicated cashmere wash (Woolite Delicates, The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo, Perwoll Wool), a wool-specific detergent marked 'non-biological' or 'enzyme-free', or a small drop of baby shampoo. Baby shampoo is pH-neutral and completely safe for cashmere — it is, after all, designed for protein-based hair. Do NOT use standard biological/enzyme laundry detergent.
- 3
Submerge the cashmere and gently swirl — do not scrub or wring
Turn the garment inside-out first. Submerge and gently swirl for 1–2 minutes. Cashmere pilling and damage comes from mechanical friction. Do not rub fabric against fabric, do not scrub, do not agitate vigorously. Gently push the garment through the water.
- 4
Soak for up to 10 minutes — no longer
A brief soak is sufficient to clean cashmere worn close to the skin. Extended soaking can soften the fibre structure. For lightly worn garments (2–3 wears), 5 minutes is enough.
- 5
Rinse in cool water — same temperature as the wash
Drain the soapy water and refill with cool, clean water. Gently push the garment through the rinse water. Repeat once more. Sudden temperature changes (warm wash to cold rinse) cause felting. Keep the water temperature consistent throughout.
- 6
Press out water — never wring
Lift the garment from the water supporting its full weight. Gently press — do not squeeze or wring — between your palms to remove excess water. The garment will be heavy and stretched from the water weight.
- 7
Roll in a clean towel to remove excess moisture
Lay the garment flat on a clean dry towel. Roll the towel with the cashmere inside and gently press to transfer water to the towel. Unroll. The cashmere should be damp, not dripping.
- 8
Lay flat to dry on a clean towel, away from direct heat and sunlight
Reshape the garment to its original dimensions while it is still damp — gently pull it back into shape. Lay completely flat on a clean dry towel or a drying rack. Never hang a wet cashmere item — the weight of the water stretches the fabric permanently, especially at the shoulders. Keep away from direct sunlight (causes colour fading) and direct heat sources (radiators, fireplaces). Takes 12–24 hours.
If You Use a Washing Machine
- •If machine washing, use the most delicate cycle available — a wool, delicates, or handwash setting with the lowest spin speed (600rpm or less).
- •Place the cashmere in a mesh laundry bag to reduce mechanical friction.
- •Use an enzyme-free detergent only.
- •Cold water only — 30°C maximum.
- •Remove promptly after the cycle ends. Do not leave damp cashmere in the drum.
- •Lay flat to dry as described above — never tumble dry.
- •Even the gentlest machine cycle adds more mechanical stress than hand washing. Hand washing is always safer for cashmere.
What to Avoid
Enzyme (biological) detergent
This is the single most destructive thing for cashmere. Biological detergents contain protease enzymes that break down protein-based stains — and cashmere is protein. They digest the cashmere fibre itself, causing thinning, weakening, and eventually holes in the fabric. The damage is irreversible. Always check the detergent label: 'biological', 'bio', or any product listing 'protease' or 'enzymes' in the ingredients must not be used on cashmere.
Tumble dryer
The heat and mechanical tumbling of a dryer will felt cashmere — the protein scales interlock permanently under heat and agitation. The garment will shrink significantly and the texture will change from soft to matted. This is not recoverable.
Hanging cashmere to dry
Cashmere is heavy when wet. Hanging causes the fabric to stretch permanently, especially at the shoulders, distorting the shape. Always lay flat.
Hanging cashmere for long-term storage
Even dry cashmere is heavy enough to stretch slowly on a hanger over weeks. Store folded, never on hangers.
Hot water or sudden temperature changes
Hot water causes the protein scales on each fibre to open. If the fibres are then agitated in this state they lock together permanently — this is felting. Consistent cool water temperature throughout washing and rinsing prevents this.
Rubbing stains
Rubbing a stain on cashmere causes immediate pilling and fibre damage at that spot. Dab stains gently with a clean cloth rather than rubbing.
Pilling — Normal and Manageable
- •Pilling is normal on cashmere — it is not a sign of poor quality or incorrect washing.
- •Pilling occurs from friction — under the arms, on the sides of the body, anywhere fabric rubs against itself or other surfaces.
- •Remove pills with a cashmere comb or a fine-toothed fabric comb — not scissors or a standard fabric shaver, which can cut the fibres.
- •Pilling often reduces after the first few wears as the short surface fibres are worn away.
- •Wearing an over-layer reduces friction and limits pilling on cashmere knitwear.
Storage
- ✓Always clean cashmere before long-term storage. Body oils attract moths and oxidize into permanent yellow staining.
- ✓Fold and store flat — do not hang. Use a breathable cotton bag or acid-free tissue paper in a box.
- ✓Cedar blocks or balls repel moths safely. Replace or sand cedar every 6 months as the scent fades.
- ✓Avoid mothballs — the vapour permeates fabric and is very difficult to remove, and the chemicals are toxic.
- ✓Store in a cool, dark, dry location. Avoid damp areas where mould can develop.
FAQ
Can you wash cashmere in a washing machine?
Yes, with caution. Use the most delicate cycle available (wool, hand wash, or delicates setting), cold water (30°C maximum), lowest possible spin speed, and an enzyme-free detergent. Place the cashmere in a mesh laundry bag. Lay flat to dry — never tumble dry. Hand washing is always safer, but a gentle machine wash using the correct settings is safe for most cashmere garments.
What detergent is safe for cashmere?
Any pH-neutral, enzyme-free detergent is safe. Dedicated cashmere and wool washes (Woolite Delicates, The Laundress Wool & Cashmere Shampoo, Perwoll Wool) are ideal. Baby shampoo is an excellent budget alternative — it is pH-neutral and protein-safe. The critical rule: never use biological or enzyme detergent on cashmere. Check labels for the words 'biological', 'bio', 'enzyme', or 'protease' — these all mean the product will damage cashmere.
How often should you wash cashmere?
Every 2–3 wears is a common guideline for cashmere worn next to skin (jumpers, cardigans). Outer layers worn over other clothing may need washing less often. Cashmere does not need frequent washing — gentle washing only when needed reduces mechanical stress and extends the life of the garment. Always wash before long-term storage.
Does cashmere shrink in the wash?
Cashmere shrinks when washed in hot water or dried with heat (tumble dryer). It can also shrink from agitation in warm water. The protein scales on the fibre interlock under heat and friction — this is felting, and it is not reversible. Prevent it by using cool water, gentle agitation, and air drying flat. If cashmere has shrunk slightly, the baby shampoo soak method used to unshrink wool may restore some size.
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