How to Wash Lace
Lace has no backing fabric — one broken thread causes an irreversible run. Abrasion (threads catching on drum surfaces or other items) is the primary damage mechanism, not chemical attack. A mesh bag is mandatory for any machine wash. Nylon Raschel lace: 30°C maximum, no tumble drying. Elasticated lace: same. Cotton Leavers and vintage lace: cold hand wash only.
The Chemistry
Lace is structurally unlike any other fabric because it has no continuous base layer — its integrity depends entirely on interlocked loops, twisted threads, or knotted patterns at every point in the structure. This architecture has a critical consequence: a single broken thread can cause an irreversible run that propagates through the structure. In woven or knitted fabric, a broken thread creates a small hole; in lace, it can unravel a large area. Lace comes in two fundamentally different constructions that require different care: Leavers lace (also called bobbin lace or real lace) is made on a Leavers machine that mimics the hand bobbin lace process: hundreds of independently controlled threads twist around each other to form the pattern. Every point in the structure is an interlocking of multiple thread paths — there is no single load-bearing thread in most areas. Leavers lace is typically made from cotton, rayon, or silk. It is expensive (the machine is very complex), structurally robust when handled correctly, but extremely vulnerable to mechanical abrasion because the fine threads catch on anything rough. Cotton Leavers lace handles relatively high temperatures (up to 40°C hand wash) but should never be tumble dried. Raschel lace (the type used in almost all modern lingerie, curtains, and decorative trim) is a warp-knit construction. A base bar creates a continuous chain of loops, and the patterning threads are laid in by separate guide bars. Raschel lace has a visible net background. It is made primarily from nylon or polyester, is much faster and cheaper to produce than Leavers lace, and is dimensionally more stable. Nylon Raschel lace has good chemical resistance but is heat-sensitive — nylon yellows from heat and UV, and high temperatures cause nylon to lose elasticity. Temperature limit for nylon lace: 30°C wash maximum. Elasticated lace (used for bra bands, underwear edges, and yoga wear trim) incorporates an elastane (Lycra/Spandex) foundation thread. The same elastane heat sensitivity applies: above 40°C or in a tumble dryer at medium-high heat, the polyurethane chains in the elastane undergo thermoplastic deformation, permanently reducing the elastic recovery. Elasticated lace should be washed cold (30°C maximum) and always air dried. Vintage lace (pre-1950s) is almost always cotton, linen, or silk. Cotton lace from this era may have aged and have weakened cellulose chains — the fabric may be fragile regardless of construction. The yellowing of antique cotton lace is from cellulose oxidation and the depletion of optical brighteners (if any were ever present). Attempting to whiten vintage lace with chlorine bleach destroys the fibres permanently and rapidly. The primary damage mechanism across all lace types is abrasion — not chemical attack. When lace tumbles in a machine, the fine protruding threads catch on other items, on the drum texture, and on themselves. One snag unravels a loop; that loop becomes a run. The solution is enclosure: a fine mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase secured at the open end creates a physical barrier that prevents the lace from contacting other surfaces during agitation. Cotton lace is also vulnerable to chlorine bleach (oxidative destruction of cellulose) and enzyme detergent is safe for cotton and nylon lace but should be avoided for silk lace (protease digests silk protein). Biological detergent is fine for the vast majority of modern Raschel nylon lace and cotton Leavers lace.
Step-by-step
- 1
Identify lace type — Raschel nylon, Leavers cotton, elasticated, or vintage
Raschel machine lace (most modern lace): visible net background, made from nylon or polyester, used on lingerie and trims. Leavers lace (real lace): more complex pattern, typically cotton, no net background — rarer and more expensive. Elasticated lace: stretch and recovery, used on bra bands and underwear edges — contains elastane. Vintage lace: pre-synthetic materials, cotton or linen, may be fragile from fibre ageing. The lace type determines the temperature limit and whether hand washing is required.
- 2
Always use a mesh bag or pillowcase — abrasion is the primary damage mechanism
This is the single most important step for any machine wash of lace. Place the lace item in a fine-mesh laundry bag or a pillowcase secured at the open end (knotted or safety-pinned). This prevents fine lace threads from catching on the drum, the door seal, or other items in the wash. Even within a mesh bag, avoid washing lace with items that have hook-and-eye fastenings, zips, or velcro — any protruding metal or rough surface can catch lace threads through the mesh.
- 3
Wash temperature by lace type: nylon/elasticated 30°C, cotton 30–40°C, silk lace hand wash cold
Nylon Raschel lace and elasticated lace: 30°C maximum — nylon yellows progressively with heat, and elastane loses elastic memory above 40°C. Cotton Leavers lace: 30–40°C on the delicates setting, inside the mesh bag. Silk lace: cold hand wash only, enzyme-free pH-neutral detergent (silk is a protein — protease in biological detergents digests it). Vintage cotton or linen lace: cold hand wash only — fibres may be age-weakened and should not be subjected to any mechanical agitation. All lace: gentle cycle only if machine washing.
- 4
Use mild detergent — no chlorine bleach for any lace type
Biological (enzyme) detergent is safe for cotton and nylon lace. Avoid enzyme detergent for silk lace. No chlorine bleach for any lace — chlorine oxidatively destroys cotton cellulose fibres rapidly and permanently, and yellows nylon through oxidation of the amide nitrogen groups in the polymer chain. Oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate) can be used carefully on white cotton lace for brightening — follow the product instructions for delicate fabrics and check on a small area first.
- 5
Remove excess water gently — roll in a towel, never wring
After washing, do not wring or twist lace — the thread structure can distort under mechanical stress while wet. Lay the lace item flat on a clean dry towel and roll the towel gently to transfer moisture. Unroll immediately. For fine pieces like lace veils or collar lace, blot rather than roll — any directional pressure can stretch the pattern out of shape while wet.
- 6
Dry flat or block the lace into shape — never tumble dry
Lay lace flat on a clean dry towel to dry. Antique or structured lace pieces (collars, cuffs, veils) can be blocking-pinned: lay on a foam blocking mat or thick towel, pin the edges to the original shape, and leave to dry. This is particularly important for lace with a geometric pattern — the threads relax when wet and will dry in the exact shape they are held in. Nylon Raschel lace on lingerie items: lay flat and leave — no pinning needed. Never tumble dry any lace — heat risks for nylon and elastane, and mechanical abrasion from tumbling risks snagging.
Lace washing guide by type
| Type | Method | Temp | Bleach | Dry | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Raschel nylon (lingerie/trim) | Machine delicates in mesh bag | 30°C max | No chlorine — yellows nylon | Flat, no tumble | Nylon yellows from UV + heat; avoid direct sunlight when drying |
| Elasticated lace | Machine delicates in mesh bag | 30°C max | No | Flat, no tumble | Elastane loses elastic memory above 40°C or in tumble dryer |
| Cotton Leavers lace | Hand wash or machine delicates in mesh bag | 30–40°C | Oxygen bleach only | Flat or blocked into shape | More expensive lace — hand wash preferred |
| Silk lace | Cold hand wash only | 20–25°C | No — chlorine destroys silk | Flat, no sunlight | No enzyme detergent — protease digests silk protein |
| Vintage cotton/linen lace | Cold hand wash only | 20–25°C max | No — fibres may be fragile | Block-pin into shape | Test strength before washing — tear test on hidden area |
| Polyester Raschel lace | Machine delicates in mesh bag | 30–40°C | No | Flat, low heat tumble acceptable | Most chemically resistant lace type |
Frequently asked questions
Can you machine wash lace?
Yes, for most modern Raschel nylon or polyester lace — but only inside a fine mesh laundry bag or pillowcase, on the delicates cycle at 30°C maximum. The mesh bag prevents fine lace threads from catching on the drum or other items, which is the primary damage mechanism. Leavers cotton lace can also be machine washed in a mesh bag at 30–40°C on delicates. Vintage lace and silk lace should be hand washed cold only.
Why has my lace turned yellow?
Nylon lace yellows from heat exposure and UV light — UV photo-oxidises the amide nitrogen groups in the nylon polymer chain. Wash nylon lace at 30°C and dry away from direct sunlight. Cotton lace yellows when optical brighteners in the fabric wash out and body oils (on lingerie) oxidise and embed in the fibre. Treat with oxygen bleach (sodium percarbonate, not chlorine bleach — chlorine destroys both cotton fibres and nylon). Never use chlorine bleach on any lace.
How do you dry lace without it losing its shape?
Lay lace flat on a clean towel immediately after removing from the wash. For structured lace pieces (collars, cuffs, veils, tablecloth lace borders) that need to hold a specific shape: lay on a foam blocking mat or thick towel, smooth into the correct shape, and pin the edges with rust-proof stainless steel or nickel-plated lace pins. Allow to dry completely before unpinning. The wet lace threads relax and will dry in exactly the shape you hold them in.
Can you put lace in the tumble dryer?
No — tumble drying damages lace through two mechanisms: the mechanical tumbling causes threads to snag and break as the lace catches on drum surfaces, and heat (even low settings) degrades nylon and elastane in modern lace. Polyester Raschel lace can technically tolerate low tumble heat but air drying is always safer. Never tumble dry elasticated lace, nylon lace, vintage lace, or silk lace.