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Guides

How to Iron Clothes

Ironing temperature matters more than technique. Wrong heat damages or melts fabric permanently. This guide gives you the correct temperature per fabric, when to use steam, and what to do differently for each type.

Temperature by Fabric

Low Medium High

Acetate80°CNo steam

Iron inside-out on the lowest setting. No steam — it causes watermarks and distortion.

Melts very easily. Keep the iron moving constantly.

Nylon110°CNo steam

Iron inside-out. Keep moving. Short contact time — nylon deforms quickly if the iron pauses.

Melts and permanently distorts above 130°C.

Silk110–130°CNo steam

Iron inside-out while barely damp. Use a pressing cloth. No steam — causes permanent water staining on many silks.

Water marks easily. Scorches quickly above 150°C.

Polyester110–130°CSteam ✓

Iron inside-out with steam. Use a pressing cloth if in doubt. Poly-cotton blends: match the lower temp (polyester, not cotton).

Melts above 150°C. Shiny scorch marks if pressed too hot or for too long.

Wool130–150°CSteam ✓

Use steam and a pressing cloth. Hover rather than pressing flat — wool can be crushed permanently. Let it cool before moving.

Scorches above 160°C. Heavy pressure flattens the weave permanently.

Rayon / Viscose130–150°CNo steam

Iron inside-out while damp, no steam. Rayon weakens significantly when wet — never iron or tug when soaking wet.

Shrinks and distorts with steam or excess moisture.

Cotton (light)150–180°CSteam ✓

Steam helps penetrate the weave. Iron while slightly damp for best results. Light cotton shirts iron faster than heavy denim.

Scorches brown above 220°C. Yellows over time if consistently over-ironed.

Cotton (heavy)180–210°CSteam ✓

Use full steam. Iron in the direction of the weave. Jeans and canvas can handle high heat but cool slowly — don't stack immediately.

Less prone to scorching than light cotton, but still burns above 230°C.

Linen200–230°CSteam ✓

Iron while damp with maximum steam. Linen wrinkles most easily of all fabrics and needs the highest temperature to release creases properly.

Even linen scorches above 240°C. Yellows without steam if ironed dry repeatedly.

Step-by-Step Technique

  1. 1

    Check the care label

    Before ironing any garment, check the label for the iron symbol. One dot = low (110°C), two dots = medium (150°C), three dots = high (200°C). A crossed-out iron means do not iron. The symbol overrides any general fabric advice.

  2. 2

    Sort by temperature

    If ironing multiple garments, start with the lowest-temperature fabrics (silk, nylon, acetate) and work up to the highest (cotton, linen). The iron is already at temperature when you reach the heat-intensive items.

  3. 3

    Iron inside-out where needed

    Silk, polyester, rayon, and dark fabrics all benefit from inside-out ironing. It prevents sheen marks, watermarks on silk, and protects surface finishes on synthetic fibres.

  4. 4

    Use a pressing cloth for delicates

    A thin cotton cloth between the iron and the garment prevents direct heat contact. Essential for wool (to prevent crushing), silk (to prevent watermarks), and any embellished or textured fabric.

  5. 5

    Iron in straight lines

    Move the iron in straight lines following the fabric grain. Circular or diagonal motion can stretch woven fabrics out of shape, particularly on knits and stretchy materials.

  6. 6

    Hang or fold immediately

    Fabric holds its shape while it cools. If you fold or hang a garment immediately after ironing, it will hold the pressed shape. Leave it crumpled on a surface and you will iron it again in 10 minutes.

Common Ironing Mistakes

Ironing too hot for the fabric

Result: Melted sheen on polyester, scorched cotton, distorted nylon. Usually permanent.

Fix: Start at one dot lower than you think you need. Increase incrementally.

Using steam on silk or rayon

Result: Permanent water stains and mark rings, especially on silk. Rayon can distort.

Fix: Iron silk and rayon dry, inside-out, while barely damp.

Pressing wool flat with full weight

Result: Crushes the weave permanently — visible as sheen or flat patches.

Fix: Steam and hover. Use a pressing cloth and minimal downward pressure.

Ironing embellishments directly

Result: Melts plastic sequins, cracks glued beads, damages printed designs.

Fix: Always iron inside-out and use a pressing cloth for any decoration.

Filling the iron with hard water

Result: Mineral deposits clog the steam holes over time, causing spitting and brown marks.

Fix: Use distilled or filtered water in steam irons. Descale regularly.

FAQ

What temperature should I iron cotton?

Light cotton (shirts, t-shirts) irons best at 150–180°C with steam. Heavy cotton (jeans, canvas, denim jackets) needs 180–210°C with full steam. This corresponds to two or three dots on the care label iron symbol. Iron while the fabric is slightly damp for the best results.

Can you iron polyester?

Yes, but on a low setting (110–130°C, one dot on the care label). Iron polyester inside-out with light steam. High heat melts polyester fibres and creates shiny scorch marks that cannot be removed. If ironing a poly-cotton blend, use the lower temperature (polyester setting, not cotton).

Should you use steam when ironing?

It depends on the fabric. Steam significantly improves results on cotton and linen — it penetrates the weave and releases creases faster. Use it on wool with a pressing cloth. Avoid steam on silk (causes water marks), rayon (causes distortion), acetate, and nylon. When in doubt, test on an inconspicuous area first.

How do you get rid of an iron scorch mark?

Light scorch marks on cotton: dampen immediately and treat with a hydrogen peroxide solution (1 tablespoon per cup of cold water), leave for 30 minutes, rinse. Mild scorching on light cotton sometimes responds to immediate sunlight exposure while damp. Heavy scorch marks that have burned the fibre are usually permanent — the fibre is physically damaged. Velvet and wool scorch easily and permanently.

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